Malvasia, Terzolo, 2011 (Istria, Croatia) $20
Terzolo is a small winery owned by Roberto and Tanya Terzolo that is focused on Terlan and Malvasia. Like Coronica, they share as much culturally with the Italians on the other side of the border as they do with other Croatians. There are thousands of examples of Malvasia grown throughout the world but this is truly one of the most bizarre yet oh so ‘tempting’ ones I’ve tasted. As Frank Dietrich, the owner of Blue Danube is quick to point out, Terzolo is very close to Coronica but “there is a completely different exotic almost funky tinge to this 2011 vintage.”
Fermented in stainless steel, this is a fresh, clean and fragrant, almost amazingly so considering that Terzolo does not inoculate. I’m going to call it out as weed, the scent of fresh, sticky bud with citrus flavored Life Savers, tangerine and lemon in particular, and a pristine, juicy finish. 13.5% alcohol
Considering that an eighth cost upward of $100, $20 is not bad for this Malvasia. And there goes the double entendre of the day. Seriously, and more professionally, this wine has some complexity that definitely merits its cost. I wouldn’t balk at $25 either.